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Tutorial – PCF8574 backpacks for LCD modules and Arduino

Learn how to use inexpensive serial backpacks with character LCD modules with your Arduino. This is chapter fifty-eight of our huge Arduino tutorial series.

Introduction

Using LCD modules with your Arduino is popular, however the amount of wiring requires time and patience to wire it up correctly – and also uses a lot of digital output pins. That’s why we love these serial backpack modules – they’re fitted to the back of your LCD module and allows connection to your Arduino (or other development board) with only four wires – power, GND, data and clock.

You can use this with LCD modules that have a HD44780-compatible interface with various screen sizes. For example a 16 x 2 module:

16 x 2 character LCD (white text blue background) with parallel interface from Tronixlabs Australia

The backpack can also be used with 20 x 4 LCDs. The key is that your LCD must have the interface pads in a single row of sixteen, so it matches the pins on the backpack – for example:

16 x 2 character LCD (white text blue background) with parallel interface from Tronixlabs Australia

Hardware Setup

Now let’s get started. First you need to solder the backpack to your LCD module. While your soldering iron is warming up, check that the backpack pins are straight and fit in the LCD module, for example:

16 x 2 character LCD (white text blue background) with parallel interface from Tronixlabs Australia

Then solder in the first pin, while keeping the backpack flush with the LCD:

16 x 2 character LCD (white text blue background) with parallel interface from Tronixlabs Australia

If it’s a bit crooked, you can reheat the solder and straighten it up again. Once you’re satisfied with the alignment, solder in the rest of the pins:

16 x 2 character LCD (white text blue background) with parallel interface from Tronixlabs Australia

Now to keep things neat, trim off the excess header pins:

16 x 2 character LCD (white text blue background) with parallel interface from Tronixlabs Australia

Once you’ve finished trimming the header pins, get four male to female jumper wires and connect the LCD module to your Arduino as shown in the following image and table. Then connect your Arduino to the computer via USB:

16 x 2 character LCD (white text blue background) with parallel interface from Tronixlabs Australia

Software Setup

The next step is to download and install the Arduino I2C LCD library for use with the backpack. First of all, rename the “LiquidCrystal” library folder in your Arduino libraries folder. We do this just to keep it as a backup.

If you’re not sure where your library folder can be found – it’s usually in your sketchbook folder, whose location can usually be found in the Arduino IDE preferences menu:

Next, visit https://bitbucket.org/fmalpartida/new-liquidcrysta… and download the latest file, currently we’re using v1.2.1. Expanding the downloaded .zip file will reveal a new “LiquidCrystal” folder – copy this into your Arduino libraries folder.

Now restart the Arduino IDE if it was already running – or open it now. To test the module we have a demonstration sketch prepared, simply copy and upload the following sketch:

After a few moments the LCD will be initialised and start to display our URL and the value for millis, then blink the backlight off and on – for example:

If the text isn’t clear, or you just see white blocks – try adjusting the contrast using the potentiometer on the back of the module.

How to control the backpack in your sketch

As opposed to using the LCD module without the backpack, there’s a few extra lines of code to include in your sketches. To review these, open the example sketch mentioned earlier.

You will need the libraries as shown in lines 3, 4 and 5 – and initialise the module as shown in line 7. Note that the default I2C bus address is 0x27 – and the first parameter in the LiquidCrystal_I2C function.

Finally the three lines used in void setup() are also required to initialise the LCD. If you’re using a 20×4 LCD module, change the parameters in the lcd.begin() function.

From this point you can use all the standard LiquidCrystal functions such as lcd.setCursor() to move the cursor and lcd.write() to display text or variables as normal. The backlight can also be turned on and off with lcd.setBacklight(HIGH) or lcd.setBacklight(LOW).

You can permanently turn off the backlight by removing the physical jumper on the back of the module.

Changing the I2C bus address

If you want to use more than one module, or have another device on the I2C bus with address 0x27 then you’ll need to change the address used on the module. There are eight options to choose from, and these are selected by soldering over one or more of the following spots:

There are eight possible combinations, and these are described in Table 4 of the PCF8574 data sheet which can be downloaded from the NXP website. If you’re unsure about the bus address used by the module, simply connect it to your Arduino as described earlier and run the I2C scanner sketch from the Arduino playground.

We hope you enjoyed this tutorial and you can make use of it. Finally, if you enjoyed this tutorial, or want to introduce someone else to the interesting world of Arduino – check out my book (now in a fourth printing!) “Arduino Workshop”.

visit tronixlabs.com

Have fun and keep checking into tronixstuff.com. Why not follow things on twitterGoogle+, subscribe  for email updates or RSS using the links on the right-hand column, or join our forum – dedicated to the projects and related items on this website.

Posted in arduino, LCD, PCF8574, tronixlabs, tronixstuff, tutorial

Arduino Workshop – A Hands-On Introduction with 65 Projects

Over the last few years you may have noticed a few of my Arduino tutorials, and during this time many people have mentioned that I should write a book. And now thanks to the team from No Starch Press this recommendation has morphed into my first book – “Arduino Workshop“:

Arduino Workshop book

Now into the fourth print run, “Arduino Workshop” is one of the few books on the market that can take the reader from zero knowledge to understanding the Arduino development platform, and working with a huge array of add-ons and technologies. You don’t need to buy any other preliminary book – this starts from the absolute beginning. And a huge “thank you” to all those who have purchased and supported the book so far – and it’s now available in Traditional Chinese, Korean, German and Polish.

Arduino Workshop” offers a professionally edited and curated path for the beginner to learn with and have fun. It’s a hands-on introduction to Arduino with 65 projects – from simple LED use right through to RFID, Internet connection, wireless data, working with cellular communications, and much more. Plus the reader also learns about electronics, good coding and other interesting topics.

Arduino_Workshop_GPS

Each project is explained in detail, explaining how the hardware and Arduino code works together. Plus we teach you how to read and understand circuit schematics and use this clear method of describing circuits which prepares the read for further electronics learning.

Arduino Workshop piezo

The reader doesn’t need any expensive tools or workspaces, and all the parts used are available from almost any electronics retailer. Furthermore all of the projects can be finished without soldering, so it’s safe for readers of all ages.

The editing team at No Starch Press, our technical editor Marc Alexander and myself have worked hard to make the book perfect for those without any electronics or Arduino experience at all, and it makes a great gift for someone to get them started. After working through the 65 projects the reader will have gained enough knowledge and confidence to create many things – and to continue researching on their own.

Or if you’ve been enjoying the results of my thousands of hours of work here at tronixstuff, you can show your appreciation by ordering a copy for yourself or as a gift. If you’re still not sure, review the table of contents, index and download a sample chapter from the Arduino Workshop website.

Arduino Workshop is available from No Starch Press in printed or DRM-free eBook (PDF, Mobi, and ePub) formats. And the eBooks are also included with the printed orders from No Starch Press so you can get started immediately. 

Autographed copies are available from Tronixlabs

Furthermore for readers outside of the United States wishing to save on postage, Arduino Workshop is available from many stores in various countries, for example:

And you can also find Arduino Workshop for sale from all the popular booksellers around the globe such as Amazon, Barnes and Noble, and so on.

visit tronixlabs.com

Have fun and keep checking into tronixstuff.com. Why not follow things on twitterGoogle+, subscribe  for email updates or RSS using the links on the right-hand column, or join our forum – dedicated to the projects and related items on this website. Sign up – it’s free, helpful to each other –  and we can all learn something.

Posted in arduino, Arduino Workshop, book, lesson, tutorial

Review – Intel Galileo Arduino-compatible Development Board

Introduction

Over the last year or two the rise of the single-board computer has captured the imagination and energy of many people, to the point where popular opinion has been that the Arduino world had been left behind. However this is far from the truth – there’s Arduino-compatible SBCs such as the pcDuino and now we have one from Intel  – the Intel Galileo.

Intel Galileo box

Apparently the Galileo has been available in limited distribution for a few months, and now that the marketing machine has started up – we finally had the chance to order an Intel Galileo last week and now have one as the subject for this review. It’s our first look, based on information we could find at the time and some experimenting.

What’s in the box?

In the retail package we found the Intel Galileo itself:

Intel Galileo box inside

Intel Galileo

… a diagram of what to do in the lid:

Intel Galileo box inside lid

… and a universal AC to 5V 2A DC power supply with various fittings for different regions:

Intel Galileo power supply

The only paper documentation was a safety and regulatory information booklet which gets recycled. We didn’t find a USB cable nor some stand-offs to lift the board off the bench a little.

Specifications

The Galileo is based a new chipset from Intel, the Quark SoC X1000 Application Processor, a 32-bit Intel Pentium-class system on a chip. For the uninitiated, the Galileo is a single-board computer running a small version of Linux that can somewhat emulate an Arduino Uno R3 in software. The hardware specifications are as such (from the Arduino website):

  • 400MHz 32-bit Intel® Pentium instruction set architecture (ISA)-compatible processor o 16 KBytes on-die L1 cache
    • 512 KBytes of on-die embedded SRAM
    • Simple to program: Single thread, single core, constant speed
    • ACPI compatible CPU sleep states supported
    • An integrated Real Time Clock (RTC), with an optional 3V “coin cell” battery for operation between turn on cycles.
  • 10/100 Ethernet connector
  • Full PCI Express* mini-card slot, with PCIe 2.0 compliant features
    • Works with half mini-PCIe cards with optional converter plate
    • Provides USB 2.0 Host Port at mini-PCIe connector
  • USB 2.0 Host connector
    • Support up to 128 USB end point devices
  • USB Device connector, used for programming
    • Beyond just a programming port – a fully compliant USB 2.0 Device controller
  • 10-pin Standard JTAG header for debugging
  • Reboot button to reboot the processor
  • Reset button to reset the sketch and any attached shields
  • Storage options:
    • Default – 8 MByte Legacy SPI Flash main purpose is to store the firmware (or bootloader) and the latest sketch. Between 256KByte and 512KByte is dedicated for sketch storage. The download will happen automatically from the development PC, so no action is required unless there is an upgrade that is being added to the firmware.
    • Default 512 KByte embedded SRAM, enabled by the firmware by default. No action required to use this feature.
    • Default 256 MByte DRAM, enabled by the firmware by default.
    • Optional micro SD card offers up to 32GByte of storage
    • USB storage works with any USB 2.0 compatible drive
    • 11 KByte EEPROM can be programmed via the EEPROM library.

However unlike other SBCs on the market – you don’t get any video or audio output.

Let’s have a quick look around the board. Here you can see the DC socket and microSD card socket:

Intel Galileo DC end

 From the view below you can see the Arduino shield stacking headers and flash memory:

Intel Galileo ICSP end

… more jumpers for settings, a USB host socket, USB connection (client) socket, RS232 via 3.5mm socket (!) and 10/100 Ethernet:

Intel Galileo socket end

… and some nifty jumpers to select 3.3 or 5V operation for shields and IOREF:

Intel Galileo IOREF Vin jumpers

… this jumper pair is to add a 3V battery to keep the real-time clock ticking over when the main supply is removed:

Intel Galileo RTC battery jumpers

Perhaps a CR2032 button cell holder would be preferable, there’s plenty of room on the PCB. Finally – the two reset buttons:

Intel Galileo reset buttons

If you want to reset your emulated Arduino, press the one on the left (labelled I). If you want to reboot the entire computer, press the one on the right (labelled X). This seems a little counter-intuitive, as you would imagine the button closer to the stacking headers would reset the Arduino. Note that if you reboot the computer, the last sketch you’ve uploaded will be removed and need to be uploaded again. Furthermore, more often than not rebooting the Galileo wasn’t entirely successful – and required a full removal of USB, power then replacing the power and USB to get another connection.

Turning the Galileo over reveals some fascinating PCB track patterns, and the mini-PCIe connector:

Intel Galileo bottom 2

Getting Started

Having a slight bent towards Arduino, the first thing we like to do is get the blink sketch running. The documentation is scattered all over the place, so start from maker.intel.com and follow the links listed in the “Explore Intel makers” column. The closest thing to a quick setup guide can be downloaded hereThere’s a video by what sounds to be a ten year old explaining the board – who signs off by telling us it’s ok to break something (hopefully not the Galileo at $77 a pop). Marketing FTW. Eventually we found the official Intel support page for the Galileo, so bookmark that for future reference.

However if you just want to get started as quickly as possible, keep reading. First, download the Arduino IDE for Galileo from here. Next, extract the IDE folder to your root directory – and don’t have any spaces in the folder name. For example, use:

and not:

Now plug in your Galileo – and always plug the 5V power into the Galileo before the USB (use the “USB client” socket). For Windows the USB driver (for “Gadget Serial v2.4″) is in the IDE folder, just point Windows to the top Galileo Arduino IDE folder.

Note that it takes around twenty seconds for the PC to recognise the Galileo via USB (as the Galileo needs time to boot up – it’s running Linux). For Windows users – after loading the IDE, check which COM port has been allocated. For some reason the Galileo can’t deal with COM10 or higher. To change this, head over to the Device Manager. Open Ports (COM & LPT) then right-click the Galileo and click properties:

Intel Galileo Change COM number

Next, click the Port Settings tab, then Advanced:

Intel Galileo Change COM number tab

Then select a free COM port number that’s under 10, close all the dialogue boxes and restart the computer. After the reboot, load the IDE, select the right board and serial port in the Tools menu – then select Firmware Update in the Help Menu. If for some reason you put a memory card in the microSD card slot – remove it before this process.

Intel Galileo Windows Firware Update

A confirmation box will appear, so move forward and wait for the process to finish. Don’t touch the IDE, board or anything near the Galileo until this finishes. Read some kit reviews. The update process took eight minutes for us, however will depend on the speed of your Internet connection.

Intel Galileo Windows Firware Update status

Finally, try the ubiquitous blink sketch. Once uploaded,  the tiny LED next to the coin cell jumpers will blink as requested. Now we’ll explore more about using the Galileo as an Arduino-compatible board.

How Arduino-compatible is the Galileo?

The first thing we like to do with new boards that differ from the classic Uno is to run a speed test, and for this we use the following sketch by Steve Curd from the Arduino forum:

It calculates Newton Approximation for pi using an infinite series. For comparison an Arduino Due takes 690 ms, an Arduino Mega 2560 takes 5765 ms, and a pcDuino v2 can do it in 9 to 43 ms (depending on what else is running on Linux). So out of the box, the Galileo takes 279 ms:

Intel Galileo Arduino speed test

Out of the box there is 262144 bytes available for sketches. As the Arduino is emulated, the hardware for I/O is a little different than you may have expected, and provided by a variety of I2C port expanders, MUXs and so on. For example I2C can only run at 100 kHz in master mode, no slave mode, and similar restrictions on SPI as well. Again, review this page to learn more about the internal hardware differences between an Arduino Uno and Intel Galileo.

Visit this page and scroll down to the block diagram for a visual representation, and while you’re there – review the entire page to learn more about the specific Arduino Uno R3 implementation on the Galileo. A lot of work has been done to allow successful emulation of the Arduino using the Quark CPU and internal OS. For example the EEPROM library just works, and has 11264 bytes of storage.

You can get an idea of what is supported “out of the box” by reviewing the libraries included with the Galileo’s IDE installation, for example:

Intel Galileo Arduino IDE examples

So most of the basic requirements are covered at the time of writing. And unlike some other SBCs emulating Arduino, the onboard Ethernet “just works” as it should with the Ethernet library – and the USBHost library can take advantage of the matching socket on the board. Again – research is the key, so spend some time determining if the Galileo can solve your problems.

One interesting example of the limitations of the “emulated” Arduino is the speed, and this has been highlighted by Al Williams of Dr Dobb’s journal – who ran a simple sketch to see how fast a digital output pin could be set. As GPIO is provided by external SPI- and I2C-based interface ICs, there will be a speed hit. But how much? Naturally we can’t use port manipulation so we’re back to simple digitalWrite functions with the following sketch:

An Arduino Uno running the sketch was clocked at 96.34 kHz:

Arduino Uno digitalWrite test

… and the Intel Galileo was clocked at … 225.2 Hz:

Intel Galileo digitalWrite test

This test isn’t a criticism of the Galileo, just an example of what you need to keep in mind when using it. If you’re curious about the real-time clock it’s accessed via Linux. Finally, there’s a list of known issues on the Intel forum – so check this out to get a grip on what is and is not working in terms of Arduino compatibility. One more thing – you will need a memory card installed if you want the Galileo to remember sketches after power-off.

Update – thanks to our friends (!) at reddit, you can push some I/O faster – see this post in the Intel forum.

Linux – internal

The Galileo arrived pre-loaded with a very light version of Linux, however due to the lack of video output you need to access the “computer” via some old-school methods. And thus one method is via Telnet over Ethernet. If you don’t have a Telnet client, try PuTTY. To get started, ensure you have your Galileo connected to power, client USB to PCm and to your LAN. Then upload the following sketch to your Galileo:

The observant will notice by using the system function you can send instructions to the Linux command line from your Arduino sketch. And any resulting output text can be sent to the serial monitor by directing it to ttyGS0.

Anyhow, the above sketch will run the ifconfig command and return relevant networking data about your Galileo – including its IP address:

Intel Galileo telnet sketch

Once you have the IP address, you can Telnet in and command your Galileo just like it’s 1992:

Intel Galileo poky linux box telnet

Don’t get too excited, there isn’t that much installed (e.g. no gcc or make). For more information on the Poky linux, visit the project page. Apart from running vi my *nix memory is a bit vague, however the onboard system is quite minimal. If you want to do anything serious, such as use a WiFi or other PCIe card – you’ll need to boot your Galileo with an external OS stored on a microSD card. Another way of looking at the Galileo is that it’s a board not for development with, but for running code built on a different system and then loaded onto the Galileo.

Linux – external

As I haven’t been a *nix user for a very long time, it didn’t seem worthwhile to spend a whole day preparing for an installing the external OS on the Galileo for review. However from what I can tell you’ll need to do this to run anything substantial including WiFi adaptors, python, node.js and so on. Which in my personal opinion sort of ruins the Galileo for me. Other SBCs can do all of this a lot easier, cheaper and with better documentation.

Arduino Support

As the Galileo is from Intel and not Arduino, you need to ask for support in the Intel forum. This will be an interesting test for Intel, will they invest in a substantial support effort or just stand back and say it’s all open source? Time will tell. In the meanwhile there is a gallery hosted by Intel with links to different projects.

Conclusion

Once again – remember that the Galileo is a limited single-board computer that emulates (to a certain, varying degree) an Arduino Uno R3. It is a contender if you need to integrate some Arduino-based control with software running on a light Linux machine, and all in a compact board. Or if you want to experiment with USB host and Ethernet on the Arduino platform at the same time, this could be a cheaper and more powerful option. Support is there if you can use Google, however this is not the idea beginners’ Arduino board. So don’t be a sheep and rush out and buy one after reading the marketing blurb – do your own research first.

Personally I would say that if you have a need for the specific hardware interfaces of the Galileo, and have a full understanding of the board limitations – then it’s the board for you. Otherwise if you want to experiment with a full single-board computer with Arduino compatibility, get a pcDuino. Full-sized images are available on flickr.

And if you enjoyed this article, or want to introduce someone else to the interesting world of Arduino – check out my book (now in a third printing!) “Arduino Workshop”.

visit tronixlabs.com

Have fun and keep checking into tronixstuff.com. Why not follow things on twitterGoogle+, subscribe  for email updates or RSS using the links on the right-hand column, or join our forum – dedicated to the projects and related items on this website. Sign up – it’s free, helpful to each other –  and we can all learn something.

[Note – Intel Galileo purchased for review by tronixstuff.com and not a promotional consideration]

Posted in arduino, galileo, intel, review, tronixstuff, tutorial

Tutorial – Arduino and TFT Color Touch Screen

Learn how to use an inexpensive TFT colour  touch LCD shield with your Arduino. This is chapter twenty-nine of our huge Arduino tutorial series.

Updated 07/02/2014

There are many colour LCDs on the market that can be used with an Arduino, and in this tutorial we’ll explain how to use a model that is easy to use, has a touch screen, doesn’t waste all your digital output pins – and won’t break the bank. It’s the 2.8″ TFT colour touch screen shield from Tronixlabs:

Arduino TFT colour touch shield front

And upside down:

Arduino TFT colour touch shield back

As you can imagine, it completely covers an Arduino Uno or compatible board, and offers a neat way to create a large display or user-interface.  The display has a resolution of 320 x 240 pixels, supports up to 65536 colours and draws around 250mA of current from the Arduino’s internal 5V supply. 

And unlike other colour LCDs, this one doesn’t eat up all your digital output pins – it uses the SPI bus for the display (D10~D13), and four analogue pins (A0~A3) if you use the touch sensor. However if you also use the onboard microSD socket more pins will be required. 

With some imagination, existing Arduino knowledge and the explanation within you’ll be creating all sorts of displays and interfaces in a short period of time. Don’t be afraid to experiment!

Getting started

Setting up the hardware is easy – just plug the shield on your Arduino. Next, download the library bundle from here. Inside the .zip file is two folders – both which need to be copied into your …\Arduino-1.0.x\libraries folder. Then you will need to rename the folder “TFT_Touch” to “TFT”. You will notice that the Arduino IDE already contains a library folder called TFT, so rename or move it.

Now let’s test the shield so you know it works, and also to have some quick fun. Upload the paint example included in the TFT library – then with a stylus or non-destructive pointer, you can select colour and draw on the LCD – as shown in this video. At this point we’d like to note that you should be careful with the screen – it doesn’t have a protective layer.

Afraid the quality of our camera doesn’t do the screen any justice, however the still image looks better:

Arduino TFT colour touch shield paint demonstration

Using the LCD 

Moving on, let’s start with using the display. In your sketches the following libraries need to be included using the following lines before void setup():

… and then the TFT library is initialised in void setup()

Now you can use the various functions to display text and graphics. However you first need to understand how to define colours.

Defining colours

Functions with a colour parameter can accept one of the ten ten predefined colours – RED, GREEN, BLUE, BLACK, YELLOW, WHITE, CYAN, BRIGHT_RED, GRAY1 and GRAY2, or you can create your own colour value. Colours are defined with 16-but numbers in hexadecimal form, with 5 bits for red, 6 for green and 5 for blue – all packed together. For example – in binary:

These are called RGB565-formatted numbers – and we use these in hexadecimal format with our display. So black will be all zeros, then converted to hexadecimal; white all ones, etc. The process of converting normal RGB values to RGB565 would give an aspirin a headache, but instead thanks to Henning Karlsen you can use his conversion tool to do the work for you. Consider giving Henning a donation for his efforts.

Displaying text

There are functions to display characters, strings of text, integers and float variables:

In each of the functions, the first parameter is the variable or data to display; x and y are the coordinates of the top-left of the first character being displayed; and colour is either the predefined colour as explained previously, or the hexadecimal value for the colour you would like the text to be displayed in – e.g. 0xFFE0 is yellow.

The drawFloat() function is limited to two decimal places, however you can increase this if necessary. To do so, close the Arduino IDE if running, open the file TFTv2.cpp located in the TFT library folder – and search for the line:

… then change the value to the number of decimal places you require. We have set ours to four with success, and the library will round out any more decimal places. To see these text display functions in action,  upload the following sketch:

… which should result in the following:

Arduino TFT colour touch shield text

To clear the screen

To set the screen back to all black, use:

Graphics functions

There are functions to draw individual pixels, circles, filled circles, lines, rectangles and filled rectangles. With these and a little planning you can create all sorts of images and diagrams. The functions are:

The following sketch demonstrates the functions listed above:

… with the results shown in this video.

Using the touch screen

The touch screen operates in a similar manner to the other version documented earlier, in that it is a resistive touch screen and we very quickly apply voltage to one axis then measure the value with an analogue pin, then repeat the process for the other axis.

You can use the method in that chapter, however with our model you can use a touch screen library, and this is included with the library .zip file you downloaded at the start of this tutorial.

The library does simplify things somewhat, so without further ado upload the touchScreen example sketch included with the library. Open the serial monitor then start touching the screen. The coordinates of the area over a pixel being touch will be returned, along with the pressure – as shown in this video.

Take note of the pressure values, as these need to be considered when creating projects. If you don’t take pressure into account, there could be false positive touches detected which could cause mayhem in your project.

Now that you have a very simple method to determine the results of which part of the screen is being touched – you can create sketches to take action depending on the touch area. Recall from the example touch sketch that the x and y coordinates were mapped into the variables p.x and p.y, with the pressure mapped to p.z. You should experiment with your screen to determine which pressure values work for you.

In the following example, we don’t trigger a touch unless the pressure value p.z is greater than 300. Let’s create a simple touch-switch, with one half of the screen for ON and the other half for OFF. Here is the sketch:

What’s happening here? We divided the screen into two halves (well not physically…) and consider any touch with a y-value of less than 160 to be the off area, and the rest of the screen to be the on area. This is tested in the two if functions – which also use an and (“&&”) to check the pressure. If the pressure is over 300 (remember, this could be different for you) – the touch is real and the switch is turned on or off.

… and a quick demonstration video of this in action.

Displaying images from a memory card

We feel this warrants a separate tutorial, however if you can’t wait – check out the demo sketch which includes some example image files to use.

Conclusion

By now I hope you have the answer to “how do you use a touch screen LCD with Arduino?” and had some fun learning with us. You can get your LCD from Tronixlabs. And if you enjoyed this article, or want to introduce someone else to the interesting world of Arduino – check out my book (now in a third printing!) “Arduino Workshop”.

visit tronixlabs.com

Have fun and keep checking into tronixstuff.com. Why not follow things on twitterGoogle+, subscribe  for email updates or RSS using the links on the right-hand column, or join our forum – dedicated to the projects and related items on this website. Sign up – it’s free, helpful to each other –  and we can all learn something.

Posted in arduino, LCD, TFT, touch screen, tronixlabs, tronixstuff, tutorial

Tutorial – Arduino and Color LCD

Learn how to use an inexpensive colour LCD shield with your Arduino. This is chapter twenty-eight of our huge Arduino tutorial series.

Updated 03/02/2014

There are many colour LCDs on the market that can be used with an Arduino, and for this tutorial we’re using a relatively simple model available that is available from suppliers such as Tronixlabs, based on a small LCD originally used in Nokia 6100 mobile phones:

Arduino Color LCD shield

These are a convenient and inexpensive way of displaying data, or for monitoring variables when debugging a sketch. Before getting started, a small amount of work is required.

From the two examples we have seen, neither of them arrive fitted with stacking headers (or in Sparkfun’s case – not included) or pins, so before doing anything you’ll need to fit your choice of connector. Although the LCD shield arrived with stacking headers, we used in-line pins as another shield would never be placed on top:

Arduino Color LCD shield fit headers

Which can easily be soldered to the shield in a few minutes:

Arduino Color LCD shield fitted

 While we’re on the subject of pins – this shield uses D3~D5 for the three buttons, and D8, 9, 11 and 13 for the LCD interface. The shield takes 5V and doesn’t require any external power for the backlight. The LCD module has a resolution of 128 x 128 pixels, with nine defined colours (red, green, blue, cyan, magenta, yellow, brown, orange, pink) as well as black and white.

So let’s get started. From a software perspective, the first thing to do is download and install the library for the LCD shield. Visit the library page here. Then download the .zip file, extract and copy the resulting folder into your ..\arduino-1.0.x\libraries folder. Be sure to rename the folder to “ColorLCDShield“. Then restart the Arduino IDE if it was already open.

At this point let’s check the shield is working before moving forward. Once fitted to your Arduino, upload the ChronoLCD_Color sketch that’s included with the library, from the IDE Examples menu:

Arduino Color LCD shield example sketch

This will result with a neat analogue clock you can adjust with the buttons on the shield, as shown in this video.

It’s difficult to photograph the LCD – (some of them have very bright backlights), so the image may not be a true reflection of reality. Nevertheless this shield is easy to use and we will prove this in the following examples. So how do you control the color LCD shield in your sketches?

At the start of every sketch, you will need the following lines:

as well as the following in void setup():

With regards to lcd.init(), try it first without a parameter. If the screen doesn’t work, try EPSON instead. There are two versions of the LCD shield floating about each with a different controller chip. The contrast parameter is subjective, however 63 looks good – but test for yourself.

Now let’s move on to examine each function with a small example, then use the LCD shield in more complex applications.

The LCD can display 8 rows of 16 characters of text. The function to display text is:

where x and y are the coordinates of the top left pixel of the first character in the string. Another necessary function is:

Which clears the screen and sets the background colour to the parameter colour.  Please note – when referring to the X- and Y-axis in this article, they are relative to the LCD in the position shown below. Now for an example – to recreate the following display:

Arduino Color LCD shield text demonstration

… use the following sketch:

In example 28.1 we used the function lcd.clear(), which unsurprisingly cleared the screen and set the background a certain colour.

Let’s have a look at the various background colours in the following example. The lcd.clear()  function is helpful as it can set the entire screen area to a particular colour. As mentioned earlier, there are the predefined colours red, green, blue, cyan, magenta, yellow, brown, orange, pink, as well as black and white. Here they are in the following example:

And now to see it in action. In this demonstration video the colours are more livid in real life, unfortunately the camera does not capture them so well.

 

Now that we have had some experience with the LCD library’s functions, we can move on to drawing some graphical objects. Recall that the screen has a resolution of 128 by 128 pixels. We have four functions to make use of this LCD real estate, so let’s see how they work. The first is:

This function places a pixel (one LCD dot) at location x, y with the colour of colour.

Note – in this (and all the functions that have a colour parameter) you can substitute the colour (e.g. BLACK) for a 12-bit RGB value representing the colour required. Next is:

Which draws a line of colour COLOUR, from position x0, y0 to x1, y1. Our next function is:

This function draws an oblong or square of colour COLOUR with the top-left point at x0, y0 and the bottom right at x1, y1. Fill is set to 0 for an outline, and 1 for a filled oblong. It would be convenient for drawing bar graphs for data representation. And finally, we can also create circles, using:


X and Y is the location for the centre of the circle, radius and COLOUR are self-explanatory. We will now use these graphical functions in the following demonstration sketch:

The results of this sketch are shown in this video. For photographic reasons, I will stick with white on black for the colours.

So now you have an explanation of the functions to drive the screen – and only your imagination is holding you back.

Conclusion

Hopefully this tutorial is of use to you. and you’re no longer wondering “how to use a color LCD with Arduino”. They’re available from our tronixlabs store. And if you enjoyed this article, or want to introduce someone else to the interesting world of Arduino – check out my book (now in a third printing!) “Arduino Workshop”.

visit tronixlabs.com

Have fun and keep checking into tronixstuff.com. Why not follow things on twitterGoogle+, subscribe  for email updates or RSS using the links on the right-hand column, or join our forum – dedicated to the projects and related items on this website. Sign up – it’s free, helpful to each other –  and we can all learn something.

Posted in arduino, LCD, LCD-09363, Linksprite, SHD_LCD_NOKIA, sparkfun, tronixstuff, tutorial0 Comments

Tutorial – pcDuino GPIO with Arduino IDE

Introduction

In this tutorial we’ll explain how to use the GPIO pins of the Arduino implementation in the pcDuino v2 and v3. As the v3 is now available you can use it as well, and it’s interchangeable with the v2. Although the pcDuino v2 is Arduino-compatible, there are a few differences that you need to be aware of – in order to make your projects a success and also to avoid any costly mistakes.

pcDuino v2 board

This tutorial builds on the knowledge from the initial review, so if pcDuino v2 is new to you please review this article before moving on. In this instalment we’ll run through the following:

  • ADC (analogue to digital)
  • Digital input and outputs
  • PWM (pulse-width modulation)
  • I2C bus
  • SPI bus

Using ADC pins

Just like an Arduino Uno or compatible, the pcDuino v2 has six ADC pins, in the expected locations:

pcduino v2 ADC pin map

Using the pcDuino v2’s ADC pins is quite straight forward, however you just need to remember a few things about the hardware – that the maximum input voltage on A0 and A1 is 2V – and 3.3V for A2~A5.

Although there is an AREF pin on the board, this function isn’t supported at the time of writing. From the software perspective A0 and A1’s values have a 6-bit resolution and can fall between 0 and 63 (0~2V), otherwise the others have a 12-bit resolution and thus return values between 0 and 4095 (0~3.3V). Using the ADC pins is simple, and demonstrated in the following sketch:

… which results with the following in the console:

pcDuino ADC demo output

Digital outputs

The pcDuino v2’s implementation of digital outputs aren’t anything out of the ordinary – except that you are limited to a maximum voltage of 3.3V instead of the usual 5V. Furthermore you can only source 4mA from each pin. However if you have some 5V-only shields that you must use with your pcDuino v2 – there is a Voltage Translation board that can be used to solve the problem:

pcDuino v2 voltage translation board TBoard

However using 3.3V for new designs shouldn’t be an issue – new sensors, ICs and so on should be 3.3V-compatible. And with the pcDuino v2 you get an extra four digital I/O pins, located next to the SPI grouping as shown below:

pcDuino v2 extra GPIO pins

These are simply addressed as D14~D17. Now back for a quick demonstration with the typical LEDs. As the current sourced from each GPIO pin cannot exceed 4mA, you need to use a resistor to keep things under control. Using the LED wizard, by entering a 3.3V supply, 2.1V forward voltage for our LEDs and a 4mA current – the resistor value to use is 330Ω.

If you’re having a lazy attack and use 560Ω, the current will be around 2.5mA with acceptable results. We’ve done just that with the following demonstration sketch:

… and the results in this video.

 

Digital inputs

When using the digital pins as inputs, just treat them as normal except they have a maximum input voltage of 3.3V for HIGH. Again – just keep thinking “3.3V”.

Using the I2C data bus

The I2C bus (or “two wire interface”) is a common serial data bus used for interfacing all manner of devices with a microcontroller. You can find a background on the I2C bus and Arduino tutorial here. Just like an Arduino Uno R3, the I2C bus pins are both A4 and A5 (for SCL and SDA) and can also be found up near D13, for example.

The limitations for the pcDuino v2’s version of I2C bus are few – the maximum speed is 200 kHz, it only uses 7-bit addresses and you can’t use the pcDuino in slave mode. However there are 2.2kΩ pullup resistors which can save using them with external circuitry.

We demonstrate the I2C bus by writing data to and reading it from a Microchip 24LC256 EEPROM (which is handy in itself as there isn’t any EEPROM function on the pcDuino v2). This is demonstrated with an Arduino Uno in part two of our I2C tutorials.

Connection is very easy – pins 1 to 4 of the EEPROM are connected to GND, pin 5 to SDA, pin 6 to SCL, pin 7 to GND and pin 8 to 3.3V. Finally a 0.1uF capacitor is placed across 3.3V and GND.

pcduino v2 eeprom

The sketch to read and write values to the EEPROM is simple, and apart from the #include <core.h> for the pcDuino all the other functions operate as normal.

… which results with the following output in the console:

pcduino i2c demonstration

As you now know, using I2C isn’t hard at all. A lot of beginners shy away from it – or run screaming for the nearest library for their part. You don’t need libraries – spend a little time now learning about I2C and you’re set for life.

Using the SPI data bus

Again we have some SPI tutorials for Arduino, so check them out first if the concept is new to you. Writing to an SPI device with the pcDuino v2 isn’t tricky at all, you have the 3.3V hardware limitation and the SPI pins are in the same location (D10~D13) or in a separate group on the board:

pcduino v2 SPI pins

Furthermore the maximum SPI speed is 12 MHz and the pcDuino v2’s  implementation of SPI can only work as a master. However in the sketch there are a few differences to note. To demonstrate this we’ll control a Microchip MCP4162 digital rheostat via SPI to control the brightness of an LED. Here is the circuit:

pcDuino v2 MCP4162 SPI demo circuit

And now for the sketch. Take note of the fourth line in void setup() –  this is used to set the SPI bus speed to 12 MHz. You can also reduce the speed with other multipliers such as 32, 64 and 128 to slow it down even further. The other point to note is the use of SPI.transfer(). With the pcDuino v2 there are two parameters – the first is the data to send to the SPI device, and the second is either

if there is another byte of data following immediately, or

if that is the last byte for that immediate transfer. You can see this use of the paramters within the function setValue() in the demonstration sketch below.

When using the SPI bus, relevant data will appear in the console, for example:

pcduino V2 SPI console output

And finally the demonstration video to show you it really works – you can see the output voltage from the rheostat and the matching LED brightness.

Receiving data from the SPI bus is equally as simple, however at the time of writing we don’t have an SPI device to demonstrate this, so please refer the SPI part of the pcDuino guide. Finally, you can’t use PWM on D10 or D11 when using the SPI bus in your sketch.

Pulse-width modulation

You can simulate analogue output using PWM with a pcDuino v2 – however there are two types of PWM pins available. The first is found on digital pins D3, D9, D10 and D11 – they are simulated PWM – and have a low range of zero to twenty at 5 Hz. There are two hardware PWM pins – D5 and D6, which  run at 520Hz and have the full range of 0~255 available in analogWrite(). Once again – they output 3.3V. Furthermore, you can’t use pinMode() functions or the SPI bus if using D10 and/or D11 for PWM.

Conclusion

Now you should have an understanding of the features and limitations of using GPIO pins with your pcDuino v2 Arduino sketches. Stay tuned as we continue with more pcDuino v2 articles and tutorials in the near future. pcDuino boards and accessories are available from tronixlabs. Full-sized images are on flickr.

And if you enjoyed this article, or want to introduce someone else to the interesting world of Arduino – check out my book (now in a third printing!) “Arduino Workshop”.

visit tronixlabs.com

Have fun and keep checking into tronixstuff.com. Why not follow things on twitterGoogle+, subscribe  for email updates or RSS using the links on the right-hand column, or join our forum – dedicated to the projects and related items on this website. Sign up – it’s free, helpful to each other –  and we can all learn something.

Posted in ADC, arduino, GPIO, I2C, pcDuino, PWM, SPI, tronixlabs, tronixstuff, tutorial0 Comments

Online data analysis with Arduino and plotly

Introduction

It’s 2014 and the Internet-of-Things is flying along at a rapid rate with all sorts of services and devices that share data and allow control via the Internet. In the spirit of this we look a new service called plotly.

This is a “collaborative data analysis and graphing tool” which allows you to upload your own data to be analysed in many ways, and then graph the results using all sorts of plot types.

With plotly you can run your own mathematical functions over your data, run intense statistical analysis and use or edit one of the many APIs (PythonMATLABRJuliaRESTArduino, or Perl) to increase the level of customisation. Plotly works in conjunction with Google Drive to store your data, however this can be exported and imported without any issues. Futhermore plotly works best in Google Chrome.

For our review we’ll look at using plotly to quickly display and analyse data received from an Internet-connected Arduino – our EtherTen, or you can use almost any Arduino and Ethernet shield. The system isn’t completely documented however by revieiwng our example sketch and some experimenting with the interface plotly is very much usable, even in its current beta format.

Getting started with plotly

You will need to setup a plotly account, and this is simply accomplished from their main site. Some of you may be wondering what plotly costs – at the time of writing plotly is free for unlimited public use (that is – anyone can see your data with the right URL), but requires a subscription for extended private use. You can find the costs at the plans page.

Once you have a plotly account, visit your plotly home page, whose URL is https://plot.ly/~yourusername/# – then click “edit profile”. Another window will appear which amongst other things contains your plotly API key – make a note of this as you will need it and your username for the Arduino sketch.

Next, you’ll need some Arduino or compatible hardware to capture the data to log and analyse. An Arduino with an Ethernet or WiFi connection, and appropriate sensors for your application. We have our EtherTen that takes readings from a temperature/humidity sensor and a light level sensor:

Freetronics EtherTen Arduino Plotly

Now you need a new Arduino library, which is available from the plotly API page. Lots of APIs there… Anyhow, click “Arduino” and you will arrive at the github page. Download the entire .zip file, and extract the plotly_ethernet folder into Arduino libraries folder which in most installations can be found at ..\Arduino-1.0.x\libraries. 

plotly arduino library folder

Finally we’ll use a demonstration sketch provided by plotly and modify this to our needs, which can be downloaded from github. We’ll go through this sketch and show you what to update – so have a quick look and then at out example sketch at the end of this section.

First, insert any code required to get data from your sensors and store the data in a variable – do this so the values can be used in void loop. Next, update the MAC address and the IP address of your Ethernet-enabled Arduino with the following lines:

and change the MAC and IP if necessary. If Arduino and Ethernet is new to you, check out the tutorial. Now look for the following two lines and enter your plotly username and API key:

Next – it’s a good idea to set your time zone, so the time in plots makes sense. Add the following two lines in void setup():

You can find a list of time zones available for use with plotly here. Now you need to determine how many traces and points to use. A trace is one source of data, for example temperature. For now you will have one point, so set these parameters using the following lines:

For example, we will plot temperature, humidity and light level – so this requires three traces. The next step is to set the filename for the plot, using the following line:

This will be sent to plotly and your data will be saved under that name. At the point in your sketch where you want to send some data back to plotly, use:

… then the following for each trace:

where data is the variable to send back to plotly. We use millis() as our example is logging data against time.

To put all that together, consider our example sketch with the hardware mentioned earlier:

After wiring up the hardware and uploading the sketch, the data will be sent until the power is removed from the Arduino.

Monitoring sensor data

Now that your hardware is sending the data off to plotly, you can check it out in real time. Log into plotly and visit the data home page – https://plot.ly/plot – for example:

plotly home data page

Your data file will be listed – so just click on the file name to be presented with a very basic graph. Over time you will see it develop as the data is received, however you may want to alter the display, headings, labels and so on. Generally you can click on trace labels, titles and so on to change them, the interface is pretty intuitive after a few moments. A quick screencast of this is shown in this video.

To view and analyse the raw data – and create all sorts of custom plots, graphs and other analysis – click the “view data in grid” icon which is the second from the left along the bar:

view data grid button

At which point your data will be displayed in a new tab:

plotly arduino data grid

From this point you can experiment to your heart’s content – just don’t forget to save your work. In a short amount of time your data can be presented visually and analysed with ease:

plotly arduino data graph

Conclusion

Although plotly is still in beta form, it works well and the developers are responsive to any questions – so there isn’t much more to say but give it a try yourself, doing so won’t cost you anything and you can see how useful plotly is for yourself. And if you enjoyed this article, or want to introduce someone else to the interesting world of Arduino – check out my book (now in a third printing!) “Arduino Workshop”.

visit tronixlabs.com

Have fun and keep checking into tronixstuff.com. Why not follow things on twitterGoogle+, subscribe  for email updates or RSS using the links on the right-hand column, or join our forum – dedicated to the projects and related items on this website. Sign up – it’s free, helpful to each other –  and we can all learn something.

Posted in API, arduino, ethernet, plotly, tronixstuff, tutorial0 Comments

Tutorial – Arduino Mega and SM5100B GSM Cellular

Connect your Arduino Mega or compatible to the cellular network with the SM5100 GSM module shield from Tronixlabs. If you have an Arduino Uno or compatible, visit this page. If you are looking for tutorials using the SIMCOM SIM900 GSM module, click here.

This is chapter twenty-seven of a series originally titled “Getting Started/Moving Forward with Arduino!” by John Boxall – A tutorial on the Arduino universe. The first chapter is here, the complete series is detailed here.

Updated 18/01/2014

Introduction

The purpose of this tutorial is to have your Arduino Mega to communicate over a GSM mobile telephone network using a shield based on the SM5100B module from Tronixlabs. We’ve written this as the shield from Sparkfun used in the previous tutorial was somewhat fiddly for use with an Arduino Mega – so this shield is a more convenient alternative:

Arduino Mega Linksprite SM5100B GSM Shield

Our goal is to illustrate various methods of interaction between an Arduino Mega and the GSM cellular network using the shield shown above, with which you can then use your existing knowledge to build upon those methods. Doing so isn’t easy – but it isn’t that difficult.

Stop! Please read first:

  • It is assumed that you have a solid understanding of how to program your Arduino. If not, start from chapter zero
  • Sending SMS messages and making phone calls cost real money, so it would be very wise to use a prepaid cellular account or one  that allows a fair amount of calls/SMS
  • The GSM shield only works with “2G” GSM mobile networks operating on the 850, 900 and PCS1800 MHz frequencies. If in doubt, ask your carrier first
  • Australians – you can use any carrier’s SIM card
  • Canadians – this doesn’t work with Sasktel
  • North Americans – check with your cellular carrier first if you can use third-party hardware (i.e. the shield)
  • I cannot offer design advice for your project nor technical support for this article.
  • If you are working on a college/university project and need specific help – talk to your tutors or academic staff. They get paid to help you.
  • Please don’t make an auto-dialler…

 

Getting started

Before moving forward there us one vital point you need to understand – the power supply. The GSM shield can often require up to 2A of current in short bursts – especially when turned on, reset, or initiating a call.

However your Arduino board can only supply just under 1A. It is highly recommended that you use an external regulated power supply of between 9 and 12 VDC capable of delivering 2A of current – from an AC adaptor, large battery with power regulator, etc. Otherwise there is a very strong probability of damaging your shield and Arduino. When connecting this supply use the Vin and GND pins. Do not under any circumstances power the Arduino and shield from just the USB power.

Next – use an antenna! The wire hanging from the shield is not an antenna. YOU NEED THE ANTENNA! For example:

GSM antenna tronixlabs

Furthermore, care needs to be taken with your GSM shield with regards to the aerial lead-module connection, it is very fragile:

Arduino Mega Linksprite SM5100B GSM Shield antenna soldering

Pressing the hardware reset button on the shield doesn’t reset the GSM module – you need to remove the power for a second. And finally, download this document (.pdf). It contains all the AT and ERROR codes that will turn up when you least expect it. Please review it if you are presented with a code you are unsure about.

Wow – all those rules and warnings?

The sections above may sound a little authoritarian, however I want your project to be a success. With the previous iterations of the tutorial people just didn’t follow the instructions – so we hope you do.

Initial check – does it work?

This may sound like a silly question, but considering the cost of the shield and the variables involved, it is a good idea to check if your setup is functioning correctly before moving on. From a hardware perspective for this article, you will need your Arduino board, the GSM shield with activated SIM card and an aerial, and the power supply connected.

Next you need to set the serial line jumpers. These determine which of the four hardware serial ports we use to communicate with the GSM module. Place a jumper over each of the RX1 and TX1 pairs as shown in the following image. By doing this the communication with the GSM module is via Serial1 in our sketches, leaving Serial for normal communications such as the serial monitor.

Arduino Mega Linksprite SM5100B GSM Shield jumpers

Make sure your SIM card is set to not require a PIN when the phone is turned on. You can check and turn this requirement off with your cellphone. 

For our initial test, upload the following sketch:

Then connect the GSM shield, aerial, insert the SIM card and apply power. Open the serial monitor box in the Arduino IDE and you should be presented with the following:

Arduino Mega Linksprite SM5100B GSM Shield serial monitor startup

It will take around fifteen to thirty seconds for the text above to appear in full. What you are being presented with is a log of the GSM module’s actions. But what do they all mean?

  • +SIND: 1 means the SIM card has been inserted;
  • the +SIND: 10 line shows the status of the in-module phone book. Nothing to worry about there for us at the moment;
  • +SIND: 11 means the module has registered with the cellular network
  • +SIND: 3 means the module is partially ready to communicate
  • and +SIND: 4 means the module is registered on the network, and ready to communicate

All the SIND data and other codes the module will give you are listed in the AT command guide we suggested you download. Please use it – any comments such as “What’s +SIND:5?” will be deleted.

From this point on, we will need to use a different terminal program, as the Arduino IDE’s serial monitor box isn’t made for full two-way communications. You will need a terminal program that can offer full two-way com port/serial communication. For those running MS Windows, an excellent option is available here.

It’s free, however consider donating for the use of it. For other operating systems, people say this works well. So now let’s try it out with the terminal software. Close your Arduino IDE serial monitor box if still open, then run your terminal, set it to look at the same serial port as the Arduino IDE was. Ensure the settings are 9600, 8, N, 1. Then reset your Arduino and the following should appear:

Arduino Mega Linksprite SM5100B GSM Shield terminal startup

The next step is to tell the GSM module which network frequency(ies) to use. View page 127 of the AT command document. There is a range of frequency choices that our module can use. If you don’t know which one to use, contact the telephone company that your SIM card came from. Australia – use option 4. Find your option, then enter:

(where X is the value matching your required frequency) into the terminal software and click SEND. Then press reset on the Arduino and watch the terminal display. You should hopefully be presented with the same text as above, ending with +SIND: 4. If your module returns +SIND: 4, we’re ready to move forward.

If your terminal returned a +SIND: 8 instead of 4, double-check your hardware, power supply, antenna, and the frequency band chosen. If all that checks out call your network provider to see if they’re rejecting the GSM module on their network.

Our next test is to call our shield. So, pick up a phone and call it. Your shield will return data to the terminal window, for example:

Arduino Mega Linksprite SM5100B GSM Shield receive call

As you can see, the module returns what is happening. I let the originating phone “ring” three times, and the module received the caller ID data (sorry, blacked it out). Some telephone subscribers’ accounts don’t send caller ID data, so if you don’t see your number, no problem. “NO CARRIER” occurred when I ended the call. +SIND: 6,1 means the call ended and the SIM is ready.

Have your Arduino “call you”

The document (.pdf) you downloaded earlier contains a list of AT commands – consider this a guide to the language with which we instruct the GSM module to do things. Let’s try out some more commands before completing our initial test. The first one is:

which dials a telephone number xxxxxx. For example, to call (212)-8675309 use:

The next one is:

which “hangs up” or ends the call. So, let’s reach out and touch someone. In the terminal software, enter your ATDxxxxxxxx command, then hit send. Let your phone ring. Then enter ATH to end the call. If you are experimenting and want to hang up in a hurry, you can also hit reset on the Arduino and it will end the call as well as resetting the system.

So by now you should realise the GSM module is controlled by these AT commands. To use an AT command in a sketch, we use the function:

Remember that we used Serial1 as the jumpers on the shield board are set to connect the GSM module to the Serial1 hardware serial port. For example, to dial a phone number, we would use:

To demonstrate this in a sketch, consider the following simple sketch which dials a telephone number, waits, then hangs up. Replace xxxxxxxx with the number you wish to call:

The sketch in example 27.2 assumes that all is well with regards to the GSM module, that is the SIM card is ok, there is reception, etc. The long delay function in void setup() is used to allow time for the module to wake up and get connected to the network. Later on we will read the messages from the GSM module to allow our sketches to deal with errors and so on. However, you can see how we can simply dial a telephone. And here’s a quick video for the non-believers.

Send an SMS from your Arduino

Another popular function is the SMS or short message service, or text messaging. Before moving forward, download and install Meir Michanie’s SerialGSM Arduino library from here. Some of you might be thinking “why are we using a software serial in the following sketch?”. Short answer – it’s just easier.

Sending a text message is incredibly simple – consider the following sketch:

It’s super-simple – just change the phone number to send the text message, and of course the message you want to send. The phone numbers must be in international format, e.g. Australia 0418 123456 is +61418123456 or USA (609) 8675309 is +16098675309. And the results:

Arduino Mega Linksprite SM5100B GSM Shield send SMS

Reach out and control something

Now let’s discuss how to make something happen by a simple telephone call. And the best thing is that we don’t need the the GSM module to answer the telephone call (thereby saving money) – just let the module ring a few times. How is this possible? Very easily. Recall Example 27.1 above – we monitored the activity of the GSM module by using our terminal software.

In this case what we need to do is have our Arduino examine the text coming in from the serial output of the GSM module, and look for a particular string of characters.

When we telephone the GSM module from another number, the module returns the text as shown in the image below:

Arduino Mega Linksprite SM5100B GSM Shield receive call terminal

We want to look for the text “RING”, as (obviously) this means that the GSM shield has recognised the ring signal from the exchange. Therefore need our Arduino to count the number of rings for the particular telephone call being made to the module. (Memories – Many years ago we would use public telephones to send messages to each other.

For example, after arriving at a foreign destination we would call home and let the phone ring five times then hang up – which meant we had arrived safely). Finally, once the GSM shield has received a set number of rings, we want the Arduino to do something.

From a software perspective, we need to examine each character as it is returned from the GSM shield. Once an “R” is received, we examine the next character. If it is an “I”, we examine the next character. If it is an “N”, we examine the next character. If it is a “G”, we know an inbound call is being attempted, and one ring has occurred.

We can set the number of rings to wait until out desired function is called. In the following example, when the shield is called, it will call the function doSomething() after three rings.

The function doSomething() controls two LEDs, two red,  two green. Every time the GSM module is called for 3 rings, the Arduino alternately turns on or off the LEDs. Using the following sketch as an example, you now have the ability to turn basically anything on or off, or call your own particular function:

And now for a quick video demonstration. Each time a call to the shield is made, the pairs of LEDs alternate between on and off. Although this may seem like an over-simplified example, with your existing Arduino knowledge you now have the ability to run any function by calling your GSM shield.

 

Control Digital I/O via SMS

Now although turning one thing on or off is convenient, how can we send more control information to our GSM module? For example, control four or more digital outputs at once? These sorts of commands can be achieved by the reception and analysis of text messages.

Doing so is similar to the method we used in example 27.4. Once again, we will analyse the characters being sent from the GSM module via its serial out. However, there are two AT commands we need to send to the GSM module before we can receive SMSs, and one afterwards. The first one you already know:

Which sets the SMS mode to text. The second command is:

This command tells the GSM module to immediately send any new SMS data to the serial out. An example of this is shown in the terminal capture below:

Arduino Mega Linksprite SM5100B GSM Shield receive SMSs
Two text messages have been received since the module was turned on. You can see how the data is laid out. The blacked out number is the sender of the SMS. The number +61418706700 is the number for my carrier’s SMSC (short message service centre). Then we have the date and time. The next line is the contents of the text message – what we need to examine in our sketch.

The second text message in the example above is how we will structure our control SMS. Our sketch will wait for a # to come from the serial line, then consider the values after a, b, c and d – 0 for off, 1 for on. Finally, we need to send one more command to the GSM module after we have interpreted our SMS:

This deletes all the text messages from the SIM card. As there is a finite amount of storage space on the SIM, it is prudent to delete the incoming message after we have followed the instructions within. But now for our example. We will control four digital outputs, D9~12. For the sake of the exercise we are controlling an LED on each digital output, however you could do anything you like.

Although the sketch may seem long and complex, it is not – just follow it through and you will see what is happening:


And a demonstration video showing this in action.

Conclusion

So there you have it – controlling your Arduino Mega’s digital outputs via a normal telephone or SMS. Now it is up to you and your imagination to find something to control, sensor data to return, or get up to other shenanigans. This shield and antenna is available from Tronixlabs. If you enjoyed this article, you may find this of interest – controlling AC power outlets via SMS. And if you enjoyed this article, or want to introduce someone else to the interesting world of Arduino – check out my book (now in a third printing!) “Arduino Workshop”.

visit tronixlabs.com

Have fun and keep checking into tronixstuff.com. Why not follow things on twitterGoogle+, subscribe  for email updates or RSS using the links on the right-hand column, or join our forum – dedicated to the projects and related items on this website. Sign up – it’s free, helpful to each other –  and we can all learn something.

Posted in arduino, GSM, shield, tronixlabs, tronixstuff, tutorial

Tutorial – Arduino and MediaTek 3329 GPS

Learn how to use MediaTek 3329-based GPS shields with Arduino in Chapter 19 of our Arduino Tutorials. The first chapter is here, the complete series is detailed here. If you have an EM406A GPS module, please visit the separate tutorial. Updated 15/01/2014

Introduction

In this instalment we will introduce and examine the use of the Global Positioning System receivers with Arduino systems. What is the GPS? In very simple terms, a fleet of satellites orbit the earth, transmitting signals from space. Your GPS receiver uses signals from these satellites to triangulate position, altitude, compass headings, etc.; and also receives a time and date signal from these satellites.

The most popular GPS belongs to the USA, and was originally for military use – however it is now available for users in the free world.

Interestingly, the US can switch off or reduce accuracy of their GPS in various regions if necessary, however many people tell me this is not an issue unless you’re in a combat zone against the US forces. For more information, have a look at Wikipedia or the USAF Space Command GPS Ops Centre site. As expected,  other countries have their own GPS as well – such as Russia, China, and the EU is working on one as well.

So – how can us mere mortals take advantage of a multi-billion dollar space navigation system just with our simple Arduino? Easy – with an inexpensive GPS receiver and shield. In this tutorial we’ll use a GPS shield based on the MediaTek3329 GPS receiver from Tronixlabs.

Unlike the EM406A used in the other tutorial, the whole lot is all on one shield – and after some experimenting has better reception. Plus there’s an onboard SD card socket which we’ll use for a GPS logging device. The only catch is that you need to solder the stacking headers yourself:

Linksprite Arduino GPS SD card shield

Apart from the GPS shield we’ll also be using a typical Arduino-compatible LCD shield and of course an Arduino Uno or compatible. Finally before getting started, you need to set the two jumpers on the GPS shield as shown in the following image:

Linksprite GPS Arduino shield jumpers

By doing this the serial data lines from the GPS receiver can be connected to Arduino D2 and D3 – which we will use with SoftwareSerial. The benefit of doing it this way is that you can then upload sketches without any hardware changes and also use the serial monitor and GPS at the same time. So let’s get started.

Testing your GPS shield

Simply connect your GPS shield as described above to your Arduino Uno or compatible, and upload the following sketch:

Note the use of SoftwareSerial in the sketch. As mentioned earlier, the GPS data is transferred to the Arduino via D2/D2 – which we set up as a software serial port.

If possible try to get your hardware close to a window, then open the serial monitor window. The first time you power up your receiver, it may take a  minute or so to lock onto the available satellites, this period of time is the cold start time.

The subsequent times you power it up, the searching time is reduced somewhat as our receiver stores some energy in a supercap (very high-value capacitor) to remember the satellite data, which it will use the next time to reduce the search time (as it already has a “fair idea” where the satellites are).

Moving on, after a few moments you should be presented with a scrolling wall of text, for example:

Arduino GPS raw NMEA data

What on Earth does all that mean? For one thing the hardware is working correctly. Excellent! Now how do we decode these space-signals… They are called NMEA codes. Let’s break down one and see what it means. For example, the line:

  • $GPRMC tells us the following data is essential point-velocity-time data;
  • 100748.000 is the universal time constant (Greenwich Mean Time) – 10:07:48 (hours, minutes, seconds). So you now have a clock as well.
  • A is status – A for active and data is valid, V for void and data is not valid.
  • 3754.9976  is degrees latitude position data = 37 degrees, 54.9976′
  • S for south (south is negative, north is positive)
  • 14507.0283 is degrees longitude position data = 145 degrees, 07.0283′
  • E for east (east is positive, west is negative)
  • 0.00 is my speed in knots over ground. This shows the inaccuracy  that can be caused by not having a clear view of the sky
  • 263.36 – course over ground (0 is north, 180 is south, 270 is west, 90 is east)
  • 140114 is the date – 14th January 2014
  • the next is magnetic variation for which we don’t have a value
  • checksum number

Thankfully the data is separated by commas. This will be useful later when you log the data to a text file using the SD card, as you will then be able to use the data in a spreadsheet very easily. For more explanation about the data, here is the NMEA Reference Manual that explains them all.

Extracting the GPS data

You can’t decode all that NMEA on the fly, so thankfully there is an Arduino library to do this for us – TinyGPS. So head over to the library website, download and install the library before continuing.

Now with the same hardware from the previous example, upload the following sketch:

How this works is quite simple. In void loop() the sketch waits for data to come from the GPS receiver, and then checks if it’s valid GPS data. Then it passes over to the function getgps() which uses the function:

to extract the location data and place it in two variables. Next, another function:

will extract the date and time data, and place them in the pre-determined variables. Finally the use of

and

can be assigned to variables as they store the altitude and speed respectively. These functions will be commonly used across all the examples, so you can see how they can be used.

To test the sketch, position the hardware and open the serial monitor. After a moment you should be presented with the GPS data in a much more useful form, for example:

Arduino GPS data

At this point you should be able to form ideas of how to harness that data and display or work with it in a more useful way. Useful hint – you can enter coordinates directly into Google Maps to see where it is, for example:

GPS data in Google Maps

 A portable GPS display

Now that you can extract the GPS data, it’s a simple matter of sending it to an LCD shield for display. Just add the LCD shield to your hardware and upload the next sketch. Be sure to change the values in the LiquidCrysal LCD… line if your shield uses different digital pins.

Again, position the hardware and your current position should be shown on the LCD, for example:

Arduino GPS LCD

A GPS Clock

Armed with the same hardware you can also create a GPS clock. With this you can finally have a reference clock and end all arguments about the correct time without calling the speaking clock. Just use the same hardware from the previous example and upload the following sketch:

Now position the hardware again, and after a moment the time will appear – as shown in this video.

Unless you live in the UK or really need to know what GMT/UTC is, a little extra work is required to display your local time. First you will need to know in which time zone you are located – find it in this map.

If your time zone is positive (e.g. GMT +10) – you need to add 10 to your hour value, and if it’s over 23 you then subtract 24 to get the correct hours.

If your time zone is negative (e.g. GMT – 5) – you need to subtract 5 from your hour value, and if it’s under zero  you then add 24 to get the correct hours.

GPS Speedometer

Just as with the clock, it’s easy to display the speed readings with the LCD. Using the same hardware as above, enter and upload the following sketch:

Now position the hardware again, and after a moment your speed should appear. You might get some odd readings if indoors, as the receiver needs data from several satellites to accurately determine your speed. The sketch is written for km/h, however you can replace the display lines with the section that is commented out to display miles per hour.

So at this point find a car and driver, an external power supply and go for a drive. You may find the GPS speed is quite different to the vehicle’s speedometer.

Build a GPS logging device

And for our final example, let’s make a device that captures the position, speed and time data to SD card for later analysis. The required hardware is just the GPS shield and Arduino Uno or compatible board – plus an SD memory card that is formatted to FAT16. SDXC cards may or may not work, they’re quite finicky – so try and get an older standard card.

Now enter and upload the following sketch:

This will append the data to a text file whose name is determine in line 34 of the sketch. If you are using a different GPS shield or a separate SD card shield you may need to change the digital pin value for the chip select line, which is found in lines 14 and 18. The data in our example is logged every ten seconds, however you can change the frequency using the delay() function in line 73.

When you’re ready to start capturing data, simply insert the card and power up the hardware. It will carry on until you turn it off, at which point the data file can be examined on a PC. As an example capture, I took the hardware for a drive, and ended with a file containing much data – for example:

Arduino GPS logging example data

For a more graphical result, you can import the data using a third-party service into Google Maps to get a better idea of the journey. But first, the text file requires a little work. Open it as a text file using a typical spreadsheet, which will then ask how to organise the columns. Delimit them with a space, for example:

delimit Arduino GPS data

Which will give you a spreadsheet of the data. Now delete all the columns except for the latitude and longitude data, and add a header row as such:

GPS data in spreadsheet

Now save that file as an .xls spreadsheet. Next, visit the GPS Visuliser website, and upload the file using the box in the centre of the page. Select “Google Maps” as the output format, and your trip will be presented – for example:

GPS trip map

There are many options on the visualiser site, so if you end up using it a lot – consider giving them a donation.

Conclusion

Now you have some easy example sketches that demonstrate how to extract and work with data from your GPS shield. For the curious, the static GPS locations displayed in this tutorial are not our current location. And if you enjoyed this article, or want to introduce someone else to the interesting world of Arduino – check out my book (now in a third printing!) “Arduino Workshop”.

visit tronixlabs.com

Have fun and keep checking into tronixstuff.com. Why not follow things on twitterGoogle+, subscribe  for email updates or RSS using the links on the right-hand column, or join our forum – dedicated to the projects and related items on this website. Sign up – it’s free, helpful to each other –  and we can all learn something.

Posted in arduino, GPS, Mediatek 3329, shield, SKM58, tronixlabs, tronixstuff, tutorial0 Comments

Review – pcDuino v2

Introduction

Updated 29/01/2014 All pcDuino v2 tutorials

Update! The pcDuino version 3 is now available

In the last twelve months or so several somewhat inexpensive single-board computers have burst onto the market, and of those was the pcDuino. This has now evolved into the pcDuino v2,  the topic of our review. The pcDuino v2 is billed as the “mini PC + Arduino”, a combination with much promise. Out of the box it runs a version of Ubuntu 12.04 on Linaro 12.07, or can also run Android Ice Cream Sandwich if so desired.

The pcDuino v2 is a single-board computer like many others, however with some interesting additions – the most interesting being the Arduino-shield hardware connections and pcDuino v2 Arduino development environment. We’ll first run through the pcDuino v2 as a Linux computer, and then delve into the Arduino-compatibility. But first, our test board… which arrived safely in a neat box:

pcDuino v2 box

… which contains the pcDuino v2 itself:

pcDuino v2 board

At first glance you can see the various points of interest, such as the Allwinner A10, which is a 1GHz ARM Cortex A8 CPU:

pcDuino v2 CPU

… the Realtek WiFi add-on board (which is fitted to the pcDuino v2):

pcDuino v2 realtek wifi

… and also a USB socket (for keyboard, mouse, USB hub and so on), a microUSB for USB OTG use, a full-sized HDMI socket for full HD video, RJ45 Ethernet socket,  a microSD socket for expansion, and the Hynix flash memory ICs. From the pcDuino v2 website, the specifications are:

Hardware:

  • CPU – 1GHz ARM Cortex A8
  • GPU – OpenGL ES2.0, OpenVG 1.1 Mali 400 core
  • DRAM – 1GB
  • Onboard Storage – 2GB Flash, microSD card (TF) slot for up to 32GB
  • Video Output – HDMI
  • OS – Linux3.0 + Ubuntu 12.04/Android ICS 4.0
  • Extension Interface Arduino Headers
  • Network interface – 10/100Mbps RJ45 and on-board WiFi module
  • USB Host port 1
  • Requires – Power 5V, 2000mA
  • Overall Size 125mm X 52mm

Software

  • OS – Ubuntu 12.04 (pre-loaded) or Android ICS 4.0
  • APIs – all the Arduino shield pins are accessible with the provided API. 

    It consists of API to access the following interfaces: UART, ADC, PWM, GPIO, I2C, SPI

  • Programming language support – C, C++ with GNU tool chain, Java with standard Android SDK, Python. 

However at the time of writing all models with the date stamp of 17/09/2013 (and newer) have 4G of onboard flash storage – a great little bonus. With the addition of an inexpensive microSD card you can add up to an additional 32 G of storage.

Getting Started

This is the crunch-point for many products – how does one get started? With the pcDuino – very easily. Apart from the computer itself, you’ll need a monitor with HDMI inputs and speakers, a USB keyboard and mouse (with a USB hub – or one of those keyboard/trackpad combinations) and a power supply. The pcDuino v2 requires up to 2A at 5V – a higher-rated plugpack than usual. Don’t be tempted to use a normal USB socket – the pcDuino v2 will not work properly on the available current.

So after plugging all that in with the power the last to connect – the pcDuino v2 fires up in around five seconds, quickly running through the Ubuntu startup process and ended with the configuration screen in around five seconds:

pcDuino v2 board configuration screen

After setting the time zone, language, screen resolution (full HD) and so on it was another ten seconds to the desktop:

pcDuino v2 initial ubuntu desktop

At this point we found by accident that the A10 CPU runs hot – in some warmer permanent installations it could use a heatsink. But I digress. We now have a “normal” computer experience – the WiFi found the home network without any issue and the Chromium web browser runs well considering the speed and the RAM (1G) of the pcDuino v2:

pcDuino v2 chromium browser

The next step is to format the extra onboard storage, which can be done with the usual tool:

pcDuino hard disk volume

We just formatted it to ext4 and moved on. The included software is nothing unexpected, there’s the Chromium web browser, office-style applications, terminal, XBMC, remote-desktop viewer and of course you can hit up the Ubuntu package manager and install what you need.

It’s easy to get carried away and forget you’re not using a typical multi-GHz computer so bear that in mind when software runs a little slower than expected. However working with WordPress and Google Docs inside Chromium was acceptable, and a fair amount of this review was written using the pcDuino v2.

Excluding the Arduino development environment which we look at in the next section, pre-installed programming tools include Python (v2.7), C/C++ with GNU tool chain and Java with the standard Android SDK. At this point we haven’t tried the pcDuino with the Android operating system, however plan to do so in the near future and this will be the subject of a separate article.

At this point we’d say that the pcDuino v2 is a winner in the SBC (single-board computer) stakes, as you don’t need to worry about external WiFi, or deliberating about which version of an OS to use and then having to download it to an SD card and so on… the pcDuino v2 just works as a computer out of the box.

The pcDuino v2 as an Arduino

At this point we’d like to note that the pcDuino v2 is not an Arduino circuit wired up to a computer (such as the Arduino team did with the Yun). Instead, the pcDuino v2 is a computer that can emulate an Arduino – and has the GPIO pins and shield sockets onboard.

So when you run a sketch on the pcDuino v2’s version of the Arduino IDE – the sketch is compiled and then executed using the CPU, not an ATmega microcontroller. Speaking of which, the IDE is a modified version of 1.5.3 which appears identical to the usual IDE:

pcDuino arduino IDE blink

In fact when you compile and upload that blink.ino sketch everything runs as normal, and a small LED situated near D2/3 will blink as normal. However you do need to use more #include statements, for example #include <core.h> for all sketches. When uploading a sketch, a new window appears that will be blank, as shown below – this window needs to stay open otherwise the sketch won’t run

pcDuino v2 running sketch

One of the benefits of using the pcDuino v2 is the extra space available for sketches – a quick compile shows that you can have a fair bit more than your typical ATmega328 – in our example we had 104,857,600 bytes available:

pcDuino Arduino IDE memory

We don’t have a sketch that large, but at least you have some headroom to create them if necessary.

Arduino Hardware support

The shield header sockets are in the standard R3 configuration – and all GPIO is 3.3V and not 5V tolerant. However there is a conversion shield available if necessary. There are also some extra GPIO pins available – another eight, as shown in the following image:

pcDuino v2 extra GPIO

At the time of writing there is support for GPIO use, SPI (up to 12 MHz, master-only), I2C (up to 200 kHz, at 7-bit and master-only), a UART (serial on D0/D1), PWM and ADC on A0~5.

However ADC is a little different, due to the internal reference voltages of the Allwinner CPU. Take note of the following as if you exceed the maximum voltages you could damage your board. Pins A0 and A1 are 6-bit ADCs, which return values from 0 ~ 63, which range from 0V to 2V. Pins A2~A5 are 12-bit ADCs, which return values  from 0 ~ 4095, which range across the full 0V to 3.3V.

There isn’t access to the usual serial monitor in the Arduino IDE as such, instead you need to use an external, hardware-based solution such as connecting a USB-serial adaptor to pins D0/D1 and using another PC as the terminal. And when you press ‘reset’ on your Arduino shields – it resets the entire computer, just not the Arduino emulation – (learned that the hard way!).

However you can output text and data to the console window that appears after uploading a sketch – and doing so is pretty easy, just use prinf as you would in C or C++. For example, the following sketch:

produces the following output in the console window:

printf full example ouput

It would be recommended to read this guide about using the pcDuino v2 as an Arduino which highlights pretty well everything to get you started, including the notes on interrupts and PWM – and this page which explains the headers on the pcDuino v2. Finally, as the “Arduino” is emulated you cannot use the on-board networking capabilities of the pcDuino v2 such as Ethernet, instead you use a shield as you would with a normal Arduino.

At first glance it may seem that the pcDuino v2 is difficult, which it is not. One needs instead to consider their needs and then work with the available features. Just like many other new development boards and systems, the pcDuino v2 (and pcDuino platform) is still quite new – but growing – so more features and compatibility will appear over time.

How much faster is the pcDuino v2 against a normal Arduino board?

There should be a great difference between the Arduino’s microcontroller and the A10 CPU, even taking into account running the OS and emulation. To test this, we’ll use a sketch written by Steve Curd from the Arduino forum. It calculates Newton Approximation for pi using an infinite series. The pcDuino v2 version of the sketch is below: